Chainsaw chain sharpening tips and tricks

When is a chainsaw chain sharpened?

In the process of working with a chainsaw for any, even the highest quality tool, the chain loses its original sharpness over time and needs to be sharpened. By what signs can you understand that the chain of an electric saw or chainsaw is dull and it's time to sharpen it?

Below are the main signs that it is time to sharpen the chain:

• during operation, the saw loses stability, breaks out of the hands and vibrates strongly;
• a chainsaw or electric saw produces only small chips, but does not produce large chips;
• the saw part gets stuck in the material, sawing cannot be done efficiently and quickly;
• the deepening of the chainsaw into the wood does not occur on its own; in order to perform a longitudinal cut, the tool has to be “drowned” by hands into the material, applying effort and pressing the blade;
• during sawing, a curved cut is formed;
• the chainsaw heats up quickly and strongly;
• chain wear occurs much faster;
• fuel consumption increases.

If you have noted several of the signs described on your home tool, then it's time to sharpen the chain.

The original chainsaw chain can be sharpened several times, it will retain all its working properties - cut sharpness, cut quality, tire rotation speed.

A few important tips that will help you not sharpen the chain on a chainsaw for longer:

• do not use a new chain with an old sprocket and vice versa;
• if during the operation of the chainsaw you have already worn off two chains, replace the sprocket with a new one;
• the chain must be run-in before full operation of the chainsaw with a normal load (break-in is carried out immediately before sawing, 1 minute at low speeds, and then 1 minute at medium speeds);
• after the new chainsaw chain has cooled down, its degree of tension should be checked;
• always use a chainsaw chain lubricant, quality oil;
• keep the normal taut position of the links, because during operation the chainsaw is often tilted in different directions, which increases the likelihood of the chain slipping off the tire;
• control the position and direction of the cut depth limiter, after the 3rd or 4th sharpening, check the settings of the limiter.

Chain teeth specifications

Chain teeth have several important parameters. These parameters include:

• cutting link device (consists of a base attached to the chain, a tooth blade with two cutting edges, a depth gauge that controls how deep the blade cuts into the tree, an end and top blade), the cutting action is performed not by the chain itself, but by the links, that is , teeth. They move on chains, as on a foundation, along a tree, and the link cuts the tree;
• the angle of the end blade, which allows the chain to cut through the wood (it is because of this angle that wood chips are formed when sawing).

To properly sharpen the chain, the owner needs to know:

• chain metal type (soft, hard, medium);
• chain pitch;
• depth gauge distance.

These two parameters determine how to sharpen the chain correctly. The softer the metal of the chain on the chainsaw, the more carefully you need to handle the file when manually sharpening. The top edge of the file during sharpening should be at an angle of 90° in the vertical plane and 30° or 10° in the horizontal plane.

Video about the angle of sharpening chainsaw chains

This video shows how to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain, shows the main parameters of saw chains.

The following video from the owner of a chainsaw on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands

Front angles for different types of chains can have a value from 60 to 85 °. The greater the back angle of the upper chain blade, the more it will be tilted back, the average value of this angle is from 50° to 60°. For the sawing process, the index (degree) of the back angle of the upper blade is most important, and the upper blade itself is very important for high-quality sawing.

The main condition when sharpening the chain of a chainsaw or electric saw: cutting performance is directly proportional to the angle of sharpening, that is, the higher it is, the better the chainsaw will cut the material. The smaller the sharpening angle, the smoother the tool will move, and the less vibration will be during operation.

Avoid sharpening angles greater than 35° and less than 25°. In ripping chains, an exception is allowed for the sharpening angle, in these chains the sharpening angle can be 10°.

Sets of necessary tools, templates and accessories for chain sharpening

The most popular chain sharpening tools:

• round file;
• flat file;
• holder;
• depth gauge template;
• hook for removing sawdust.

The sizes of files for sharpening chainsaw chains are different, but in everyday life for domestic needs and home use, files with diameters of 0,325 are recommended for sharpening chains in increments of ¼, 3″, 8/0,404″ and 4,0″; 4,8; 5,2 and 5,5 mm. For some chains, cylindrical needle files with a diameter of 3,2 mm are used. For manual sharpening with your own hands, a 200 mm long file with a diameter of up to 5 mm is ideal.

Some manufacturers sell these tools in sharpening kits, you can also purchase them separately. A round file is one of the most popular tools, with which many owners sharpen the chain no worse than on machines. Each set is designed for a specific chain pitch and size. To choose a chain sharpening kit, you need to know these two parameters.

Stihl file holder

Markings are applied to the holder - they help the owner of the chainsaw determine the correct position of the angle for sharpening the chain. The holder is installed simultaneously on the upper part of the limiter and the tooth, and the round file is placed under it immediately near the blade. The holder holds the file at the desired height, according to the norms, it should rise 1/5 above the blade.

To sharpen the chainsaw chain at home, the tire is fixed with a vice or clamp. It is important to keep the tool still while sharpening. The holder is placed on the markup, and then the file is moved along the chain away from you 2-3 times. Each tooth is treated equally. From time to time, the file is turned on the other side so that it does not grind unevenly.

For convenience, the teeth are sharpened evenly on one side, after which the saw is turned over and aligned on the other side.

Sharpening starts with the smallest tooth, since the length of the remaining teeth must match it. When the blades are sharpened, the limiters are processed. A template from the set is placed on the chain so that the limiter falls into the hole, all protruding edges are ground with a flat file from the sharpening set.

Other chain sharpeners, sharpening tools and instruments:

• roller sharpening device;
• files of various companies (round, flat);
• file holders;
• handles and guides for files;
• plastic cases, containers for storing tools;
• needle file - a small file, an oblong-shaped device with a diamond notch, most often needle files are used for sawing very small parts, often sold in sets.

Popular models of inexpensive sharpening machines

Popular manufacturers of inexpensive chain sharpening machines: Dnipro, Einhell, Sadko, Vitals, Forte, Intertool, Eltos, Zenit, Grand, Stern, Temp.

Among the variety of models, each owner of a chainsaw or electric saw can choose the tool that suits him. Below is a ranking of the best inexpensive chainsaw chain sharpeners, these machines have received many accolades from the owners. How much will this device cost? The cost of machines from this category is from small to medium. In this price range, there are many models that do an excellent job of sharpening chains for electric and gasoline saws.

We offer you a short rating of machines for sharpening chainsaw chains from the category of inexpensive:

1. Professional machine for sharpening chains Scheppach Woodster CS 03, manufacturer Germany, 220 Volt, power 180 W, maximum grinding wheel diameter 100 mm, wheel thickness 3,2 mm, disc seat size 10 mm, machine weight 3 kg, 1 year warranty, price 1125 UAH
2. Household chain sharpener Dnipro-M NSM-550 (budget-type electric sharpener), manufacturer Ukraine, power 550 W, grinding wheel diameter 108 mm, wheel thickness 3,2 mm, wheel seat size 23 mm, weight 2 kg, 3 year warranty, price 740 UAH.
3. Professional sharpening machine Vitals Professional ZKA8511s, manufacturer Latvia, power 85 W, grinding wheel diameter 104 mm, wheel thickness 3,2 mm, grinding wheel seat size 22,2 mm, weight 2,6 kg, warranty 1,5 years, price 1093 UAH .
4. Machine for sharpening chainsaw chains Oregon 106550, machine power 85 W, US manufacturer, grinding disc diameter 105 mm, disc seat size 22,3 mm, disc thickness 3-4,5 mm, weight 2 kg, machine price 7 UAH. The most expensive of these devices, received a lot of good reviews, a popular model in Russia and Ukraine.

Scheppach sharpening power tools

All models described are suitable for chain sharpeners on electric saws and chainsaws. To place the machine, a small workplace is required: a stable table and a power source to connect the device to the network.

Chainsaw chain sharpener Oregon - video with an overview of the operation of the device. The Oregon tool is suitable for sharpening type 91VX chains; 91VPX in .325″ and 3/8″ pitch; LPX in .325″ and 3/8″ pitch; BPX in 3/8″ pitch, LGX.

Video about the machine Dnipro-M NSM-550

Types of sharpening chainsaw chains and proper work with them

Next, we will talk about several popular ways to sharpen the chain, which can be done both at home and at work.

Manual sharpening with a file at home

Manual sharpening is considered the most economical, budgetary, for this you only need a file that the owner has in every house, if it is not there, it is inexpensive and is sold on any construction market or in a building supplies and tool store. For a chain size of 1,3 mm, a file with a diameter of 4 mm is required, for a chain size of 1,6 mm, a file with a diameter of 5,2 mm is required.

A flat file can be used for tooth stops. The sharpening template is attached to the element to be turned.

Steps for manually sharpening chainsaw chains at home:

• fasten the chain (tire) so that it is completely motionless;
• do not change the angle of sharpening during the entire sharpening;
• perform 2-3 forward movements with a file with light pressure;
• turn the file in different directions;
• sharpen according to the size of the smallest tooth.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file with your own hands - more on this video below:

Professional sharpening machine

Sharpening on the machine can be done with a manual machine or a professional machine.

Professional machines are mains powered. The principle of sharpening is almost the same as with manual sharpening:

• the chainsaw chain is fixed in the guides;
• then adjust the groove width and choose the angle;
• lower the sharpening disk;
• the chain is moved along the holder, clamped, each tooth is processed.

The grinding element in professional machines is an emery stone. A good automatic machine is not cheap, because professional sharpening equipment is mainly located in services and workshops. Buying this for home use is not rational.

Video on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain on a machine

Sharpening with a grinder or grinder

The process of sharpening a chainsaw chain with a grinder or grinder is carried out using a special nozzle, the same grinding disc that is used as a nozzle in professional machines. Of all the turning methods, the grinder method is the simplest, however, requiring some skills.

For sharpening, you will need a grinder and a metal disc 2,5 mm thick. You need to sharpen the chain at minimum speed, alternately processing each tooth on the chain. When using a grinder, wear a protective plastic mask or goggles, as well as gloves.

Video on how to sharpen a chainsaw chain grinder

Sharpening as a business service - what you need for this

To provide mass sharpening services, that is, to create a business in this direction, a lot of equipment and conditions are required. The following are the main materials, equipment and consumables that will be required to create a mini-workshop:

• a heated room with electricity supply, a place for a machine, a chair, shelving (minimum area 2 square meters, mains voltage 220 volts);
• machines with washers for various discs (electric grinder);
• grinding discs, including diamond ones;
• grinding wheel;
• mounts for tools such as skates, scissors, chainsaws;
• touchstone - a die for manual sharpening;
• hammers;
• small tools (hacksaws, screwdrivers, keys, etc.);
• vice;
• spindle oil;
• fixtures;
• punch;
• storage boxes, baskets, furniture.

Tips and tricks for sharpening at home

Andrey, Melitopol:

“I noticed that different sharpening angles are indicated on the boxes from under the chains, they differ for different chains. The factory angle, for example, is more than 25 degrees, everyone writes that it is not less than 35, but in order to cut pine well, I set the angle to 40 or 45 degrees. Some machines do not move the chain back and forth, so they don’t stand next to the factory sharpening at all! The thickness of the grinding wheel is also selected individually, and the shape of its edge must be constantly monitored.”

Valentin, Dnipro:

“My opinion, as a craftsman, is that file sharpening is the best in the world. Machines are, of course, good, but still heed the advice of an expert, I have been working with chains for ten years, no less. The machine will give you only 30 degrees horizontally and 45 degrees vertically sharpening, and a file up to 10 degrees horizontally. The vertical of the file in degrees is the same, but the shape of the cutting edge does not change, and the working blade becomes wider. No other tool will do this! Second: the machine always overheats, which is bad for steel, but the file does not. Third: the file spares the teeth, if you use it, the chain will last about six sharpenings, two longer than after the machine.

The main disadvantage of the work is that in order to work with a needle file, you need to train! Practice and only practice.

Chainsaw chain sharpening video

Chain sharpening reviews

Ivan, Poltava:

“During the time of using a chainsaw, I realized that not a single machine can sharpen better than hands! I have been with saws for 20 years, but I sharpened with a machine tool only when necessary quickly and without sharpness standards. I started working with the Urals and the Taiga, I even worked on felling forests, and after that to this day I am engaged in log cabins and wooden buildings in general. All these machines are bullshit, especially when the speed is high and the circle is spinning in one direction.